My miracle cure for the skin – Lotus & Bouche Cousue

You are probably familiar with “traditional” exfoliators, which contain grains? These are called mechanical, physical or manual exfoliators. AHAs and BHAs are qualified as chemical exfoliants, we rather speak of peeling. Do not be afraid! They are often composed offruit acids (grape, citrus fruits, sugar cane, etc.),Lactic acid (present in fermented milk), but also synthetic molecule (glycolic acid). In short, AHAs and BHAs are complementary: AHAs act on the surface of the skin, BHAs in depth.

Created in 1992, the AHAalso called peeling agents, or fruit acids or alpha hydroxy acids, and BHAs, also called Beta Hydroxy Acid are acids present in cosmetics. There is also a third category of acids: AHPdiscovered more recently.

What benefits?

AHAs and BHAs are complementary and by acting both on the surface of the skin (AHA) (eliminating dead cells and therefore providing a visibly radiant complexion), but also inside the pores (BHA), they will allow to clean them (avoid blackheads and inflammations, therefore pimples). They allow the skin to maintain good hydration but also stimulate the production of collagen. They are very good anti-acne, anti-aging, anti-redness and are very effective in tightening the pores of the skin, refining the grain, removing brown spots and small acne scars.

AHAs will rather act on the surface of the skin : they are very good scrubs and are Keratolytics and therefore avoids, for example, microcysts. They go remove dead cells in order to giveradiance to the complexion and will bring an acceleration of skin renewal. They also bring hydration to the skin. They are suitable to dry skin, with spots, acne scars, fine lines, etc

BHAsthey will act more deep in the skin and will allow free the pore of its impurities. It is an ideal treatment for fight against blackheads. It therefore meets the needs of combination to oily skin, with imperfections, acne, but its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties also make it a perfect acid for reactive skin, with redness (rosacea).

The protocol

These acids require reasoned and appropriate use to avoid burning and damaging the skin. You will have to choose progressive dosages and not to exceed 20% without a dermatologist’s recommendation. Skin that has never used acids will need to take the usual precautions and start gently: use a low concentration at first, and only use the product every other day to test.

Caution

Use an index 50 to protect yourself since the skin is refined and therefore vulnerable.

Use only in the morning at first, then after 2 weeks, possibility of using in the evening if the skin reacts well.

To start, a concentration of 2 to 5% is recommended.

Apply to skin with a low pH, so after cleansing and drying.

Do not apply to wet/damp skin as this may further irritate the skin.

Do not apply around the eye area, the skin there is already very thin! Make sure to use a suitable eye contour cream.

Use a good moisturizer in addition (30 minutes after the application of acids).

Before the age of 30, do 2 treatments between seasons, after the age of 30 regular use possible for a better anti-wrinkle result.

The results will not be visible immediately, be patient. But you will see a real difference if you hold on!

The different types of acids

IThere are sub-categories in the AHA-BHA, here are the details:

AHAs:

glycolic acid (sugar cane): this is probably the most effective of the acids. Indeed, it has the smallest molecule, which allows it to act deep in the skin. It refines skin texture, tightens pores, adds radiance, and can regulate sebum production.

lactic acid (milk, sometimes tomato): it is gentle, therefore suitable for the most fragile and reactive skin. It is a water “magnet” which helps maintain good hydration, the perfect ally for dehydrated skin.

malic acid (apple, pear): it is a very good pH balancer, which will also hydrate the skin and stimulate the production of collagen. Its molecule is also very small, which allows it to penetrate deep into the skin to act.

citric acid (lemon and other citrus fruits): very effective in the fight against brown spots but also the reduction of skin pores.

mandelic acid (almond): it is also very soft, it acts more on the surface of the skin because it has a large molecule. It brings uniformity to the complexion and reduces hyperpigmentation.

tartaric acid (grape): this acid also acts on the surface and has very good antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

BHAs:

It’s simpler, there’s only one:

salicylic acid (meadowsweet and white or synthetic willow): it has the ability to penetrate into a fatty substance, i.e. it will go deep into the pore of the skin and thus help eliminate small comedones and black bridges. It acts both on the surface of the skin, like AHAs, but also inside the pores.

PHAs:

There are also the AHP or Poly Hydroxy Acids, more recent, they are milder than AHAs and BHAs, and act more on the surface. They are more suitable for summer compared to the previous 2. it has 3 acids in its family:

lactobionic acid : it is soothing and therefore suitable for sensitive and reactive skin, but is also moisturizing and antioxidant.

Galactose : the skin has it naturally and it will help create collagen.

Gluconic acid: ditto, it is naturally present in the skin, it is a good anti-inflammatory and antioxidant.

My own products

As stated above, take it step by step if you haven’t tested acids before. I share my own products with you, knowing that they are suitable for already prepared skin and therefore I do not recommend them to “novices” at first. As mentioned in my BEAUTY KITI use the Neostrata lotion dosed at 15% in AHA. It’s a big bottle so I might as well say that the investment is worth it, I think that in 6 months I’ll still have a lot of it! To do a complete treatment I add BHA (salicylic acid) that I buy on Aromazone. For BHA to be used as an active ingredient, it must constitute 5 to 10% of the mixture, knowing that 20 drops of salicylic acid = 1ml. You can add it to your aloe vera gel for example. What I do is I use a small 10ml jar, I fill with my cream Neostrata, so I add 20 drops of salicylic acid to make 10%. I use this mixture every morning.

For “novices” use 5% AHA and 5% BHA at first, so adapt the dosages well. To help you, I summarize: 1ml of AHA = 27 drops: 1ml of BHA: 20 drops. You will also find the AHA on aromazone.

In the evening, however, I apply retinol, another great ingredient, but I’ll talk about that in another article!

You will have understood, I am convinced by the acids! And if you follow me on Instagram, you know that I tested a lot of things for my skin. Despite a contraceptive that promotes acne, the use of creams containing AHA and BHA allows me to really reduce blemishes. My pores have tightened considerably (drink 1.5L of water well for crazy effects!) and my skin texture is finer. But again, you have to be patient and progressive!